The civil war and famine of the late 1980s, as well as more recent battles and saber-rattling with the breakaway state of Eritrea and fighting in neighboring Somalia, have put Ethiopia far down most travelers' "must-see" lists. Right now, however, there's peace, and the country is welcoming visitors to explore what is one of the world's richest -- but most unsung -- historical troves. An invitation from Ethiopian Airlines brought me there, along with six other journalists. During my six-day visit, I found it to be one of the most exotic, fascinating, and photogenic places I've ever seen. Granted, it is a destination only for hardy travelers. Those visitors don't mind getting inoculations before they leave home; won't forget to take their malaria-fighting pills; and can cope with hotels that sometimes run short of hot water, or water altogether.