We spent our first afternoon securing official press papers from the Djiboutian trade authority. The smiling man who handed us our documents said, "Very good you here, you must brouter la salade [try the khat]." On the street, however, the atmosphere was decidedly less hospitable. The combination of poverty, drug use, unemployment, stifling heat, crumbling colonial architecture, rampant prostitution and various flavors of soldier was unsettling at best. Add to that a legion of screaming khat vendors and the world turning upside down for two hours every afternoon, and it's a recipe for great pictures. Getting them, however, was far more difficult than I'd anticipated.