During the eight days that I am here, Reeves and Pomerantz locate and photograph scores of these spiders, and I helped find a few too. To spot one, you walk slowly through the jungle with your headlamp beam on, even at high noon; the canopy darkens the forest more than you'd expect, and the light helps pick out the delicate white webs and their salt-and-pepper decoys. Along the way you slog through a chorus of different sucking and slurping mud varietals, and if you get too close to the river you can sink knee-deep. Luckily when this happened to me, Pomerantz was there to lend a hand. The air is thick with moisture, leading to a perpetual but not unpleasant sense of perspiration, real or perceived, but it is not overly hot. Even though it's the beginning of the dry season, it rains on and off most of the days of my stay.