One of my favorite book releases of late, not in fashion (Rizzoli, $50) catalogs the work of Mark Borthwick, a photographer in love with fashion but conversely disinterested in its typical sleek photographic representation. During the 90s, Borthwick developed an aesthetic that was more about interpreting the garments rather than exhibiting them. As such, Borthwick’s images often featured models posing with—not in—clothing, and they are marked by careful overexposure. In fact, he frequently exposed undeveloped film to sunlight (albeit very quickly) to give his photos a distinct, faded coloring. Borthwick’s is an aesthetic quite popular now among young, “anti-Vogue” style outlets, especially with the democratization of creation through new media.
not in fashion aptly represents Borthwick’s work with a layout that includes introspective, freeform thoughts from the photographer, displayed alongside “found objects” in a charming, scrapbook way. The result feels more like an artist’s journal than a retrospective tome, and it’s all the more fitting for it. The book is now available for purchase, and the Journal Gallery in New York is hosting a signing and release party tonight. Borthwick will also sign books at the International Center of Photography on May 1 (click here for the details). Click through to see additional images from the book.
— Lindsay Sakraida