| |
 |
| © Jad Davenport |
| EVERYDAY LIFE: I wanted a commentary on the armed struggle in Israel, and found it at the Western Wall; I used a wide-angle lens and got up close. Click photo for more images from Israel. |
Hire education
We all do it. We spend thousands of dollars to travel to some exotic destination and then decide to save money by not hiring a local guide.
Guides, good ones who understand your photographic mission, are invaluable. In Israel, my guide and driver, Ruthie Eisenstein, not only educated me on the history, customs, and culture of the nation, but also was a font of photographic ideas.
Religious ceremonies are some of the most visible and emotional subjects that bring history to life. Ruthie knows that bar mitzvahs are held each Monday and Thursday morning at the Western Wall in Jerusalem. "It's the best time to photograph people celebrating life," she said. And best of all, no one would mind me photographing this coming-of-age ceremony. "You'll blend in -- everyone has a camera."
Photographing in Holy Places
Churches, mosques, and synagogues can be vexing photographic subjects. Sometimes it's easy -- there's a picture of a camera with a red slash through it. Other times it's muddled-small point-and-shoots are okay, but show up with a professional-looking setup and you get ushered out.
Documentary photographer Raul Touzon says he often finds his richest images outside the churches.
"You shouldn't photograph inside a church during a ceremony, but processions held outside are fair game. They expect to be photographed."
The best times to capture emotion and activity, he says, are right before and right after the procession.
"You can mingle with the people then, they're at their most natural and you have the best access."
If you want to photograph inside a church, renowned travel shooter Bob Krist advises turning off your flash, pumping up your ISO, and using a small tripod or monopod that you can prop up on a pew or against a column.
Digital comes into its own in low-light photography. Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre that sits atop the hill where Jesus was crucified and buried, I relied on my 80-200mm f/2.8 Nikkor lens on my Nikon D200 at ISO 1600 with in-camera noise reduction. The combination gave me speed and light, and allowed me to photograph pilgrims from a distance in an unobtrusive manner.
When it comes to subjects, your choice is limited. "Look for the available light, usually from big windows or candles," says Krist, "and shoot what's in it." |
When I struggled to capture the spirit of Galilee, the seaside hills where Jesus lived for most of his life, she took me to a spot along the Jordan River where he was said to have been baptized. A busload of Mexican pilgrims arrived, and knee-deep in the cool Jordan I was able to photograph the peak of their emotional pilgrimage as their pastor dipped them into the swirling water.
Throughout the week, there were many sites I would have missed altogether were it not for Ruthie. In Israel, guides are licensed, and must pass rigorous tests in history, culture, and archaeology. Driver/guides typically charge about $350 a day with lodging and meals extra, and can be hired through www.tour-guides.co.il and www.israel-guides.net.
Dress for access
An experienced guide also can smooth your way into the inner sanctums of holy places. But never forget that holy places, especially in the Holy Land, come with their own set of photographic rules. And none is more basic than a dress code.
My work uniform is both respectful and functional: Lightweight leather shoes with rugged soles are dressier than sneakers and comfortable for long hikes. Synthetic khaki pants that zip into shorts are likewise more formal than jeans, and, if you wade into the Jordan River, they dry a lot faster, too. Some lightweight ExOfficio shirts, besides being insect- and sunproof, have zippered pockets perfect for quick access to a spare battery and memory card. Long sleeves are recommended, particularly in Buddhist countries where the etiquette inside temples is to cover bare arms.
Hats, too, can play a role, as I discovered in Israel on the morning I photographed at the Western Wall. A good floppy bush hat not only keeps the sun out of your eyes, it can also make or break your shoot. "Keep your hat on," Ruthie whispered as she sent me down to photograph the bar mitzvahs at the Western Wall. "They won't let you in without one. Religious Jews cover their heads as a sign of respect. It reminds them that God is always above them."
|
