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Big-name wildlife photographers aren't eager to admit it, but many of their most famous -- and profitable -- images were taken in zoos. Surprised? Don't be. We're pro stock photographers, and we shoot at zoos all the time. They not only educate animal-lovers about wildlife, they also offer the chance to take pictures (especially portraits and close-ups) that would be difficult, if not impossible, in the wild.
And if you do it right, your photos will go far beyond the typical "zoo snapshot" and really show the beauty and majesty of the animals. Here's how:
First, prepare. Before embarking, check the zoo's website to learn the feeding times, see which animals may have young this season, and hunt for other photo possibilities. Good pictures on the website are clues to which species and environments are most photogenic. Schedule zoo visits in early fall and late spring, before and after the school field-trip seasons.
Plan to visit animals in their mating season. Go in early fall for big antlers and dramatic behavioral displays from rutting North American mammals: sheep, goats, bison, elk, and deer. Return in early spring for birds with bright mating plumage, such as wood ducks, gold finches, and parrots.
Leave the kids at home, but do bring an assistant. He or she can do the obvious: lug gear, ensure no one trips on a tripod, and hold a flash. An assistant can also do the not-so-obvious: Often, while one of us is shooting, the other pops out from behind a window jam to get the attention of a bored animal.
We jam our Lowepro Mini Trekker AW backpack with about 40 pounds of gear: two DSLR bodies (Nikon D2x and D200), one dedicated to a 500mm f/4 Nikkor for distant subjects, and the other to an 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6 VR Nikkor and 24-135mm f/3.5-5.6 Tokina for nearer subjects. We make heavy use of 1.4X and 1.7X Nikon teleconverters. And we always bring a light and compact, but durable, Gitzo G1220 tripod.
A quick initial walk through the zoo will show you which are the best exhibits and which species the most photogenic. Look for direct, natural light and a lack of bars. Stick with exhibits that have foliage, actual rock formations (not poured concrete), and landscaping consistent with the animal's original habitat. Beware of scratched windows, clutter, and evidence of captivity: toys, rope, and worn paths. And avoid exhibits that require a wide-angle lens, introduce artificial light, or show cement.
The best exhibits offer depth in front of and behind the animals. A deep foreground lets you use a lens with a longer, more flattering focal length. Space beyond lets you throw the background out of focus, eliminating "zooey" elements while keeping the attention on your subject.
We spend most of our day at two or three good exhibits, and rotate our shooting between them. That means you have to shoot strategically.
Arrive early. The best time of day is when the zoo first opens. Not only are the crowds at their thinnest, but the animals are often most animated when they're first introduced to their enclosures after a night in separate sleeping quarters, if they have them.
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