| |
 |
|
| Click photo for more images. |
Focusing on tiny, moving subjects.
• I prefer the "close focusing method," which means that I set my macro lens to its maximum magnification setting and rather than spin the focusing ring or using autofocus, I move the camera back and forth and around the insect subject. With most macro lenses, this is the quickest way to achieve focus and get in close to the subject to avoid distracting foreground elements such as a stray blade of grass or a twig.
• You don't necessarily have to be at maximum magnification to use this method, but you'll want maximum magnification with 2x converters and maybe close-up filters for tiny ants, perhaps less for a big, burly beetle. In either case, it's the quickest way to keep the subject in focus.
• Depth of field is razor-thin at wide apertures, so it is necessary to stop down to much smaller apertures (f/16-f/32) to have most of a small insect in focus.
• With such small apertures, it is necessary to add light to capture the scene under almost all conditions, but an on-camera strobe doesn't provide pleasing light.
• I prefer shorter macro lenses in the 50mm range, rather than longer telephoto macros, to have more control over the environment by getting in really, really close, but it may be easier for the bug beginner with a slightly longer (100mm, for example) lens. Pay attention to distracting foreground elements, though, especially with longer glass.
• I shoot at low ISOs, usually ISO 100. Since all of the lighting is artificial, it makes sense to shoot at low ISOs for the best detail.
• Shoot at your camera's maximum sync speed to minimize camera shake and to ensure that the strobe is the primary light source.
Dramatic Lighting of Outdoor Insects
Onboard strobes and even macro ringlights tend to throw too much light at the background clutter, which takes away from the main subjects. But using an off-camera cord and some simple household supplies to modify your flash output makes dramatic "portraits" of insects with great directional lighting and background separation.
• Take a Sharpie (or other brand) marker cap and cut the end off -- in effect, making a tiny snoot.
• Attach the modified cap to the center area on the diffuser of the strobe or ring flash with black electrical tape.
• Cover the entire flash diffuser surface with more black electrical tape, so that the only light transmitted will be through the marker cap.
• You've now got a highly focused beam of light that will spotlight your subject -- from above, either side, or even partially backlit.
• If you are using a dedicated hotshoe connection, you can shoot (e)TTL exposure.
• With non-dedicated flash units or when using a PC-sync cable, you'll have to set the flash manually. Distance to the subject and the strobe's guide number will vary, so you'll have to experiment to find the proper output ratio.
• Patience and practice will help you make dramatic winning shots. With this "spotlight" you've now got two items, the camera and the strobe, to position close to the subject -- but once you get the hang of it, I think you'll be happy with the results!
• I use this lighting technique and set-up for insects and microfauna, but the sky's the limit! The macro spotlight technique can also be used for miniature collectibles, details of flowers, and whatever else you may shine you macro spotlight on.
|
