Japan | 2005

We arrived at the buzzing yet efficient Tokyo-Narita Int’l Airport at 4:25 pm; literally the next day for most of us traveling from the U.S. since you must cross the International Date Line going to Japan. We were greeted by our very energetic and gracious tour guide for the week, Toko, who began to gather us up like a mother hen (a skill she so charmingly demonstrated to us throughout our visit). We boarded a comfy coach for a 1-½ hour ride into Tokyo for accommodations at the Keio Plaza Hotel located in the Shinjuku area in this sprawling city. I was immediately impressed with the cleanliness of Tokyo from every shiny car on the highway to the spotless streets of the city despite the absence of public garbage cans. It was as if you were entering a futuristic city between the bright colors of brand new buildings and the “Jetson’s” like 60’s architecture constructed during the post-war rebuilding.

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We officially met each other at the very “Lost in Translations”- like Polar Star Bar on the 45th floor of the Keio Plaza Hotel over sake and snacks. Plagued with fatigue, disorientation and excitement, most of the trekkers turned in early in anticipation of a 5:30am call time the next morning for the Tsukiji fish market at sunrise. Despite our jetlag, a few of us lingered. We turned out to be the “night owls” of the group for the entire workshop including college photo students Persa, Ben and Amy.

The next morning we entered the fish market as it operated with clockwork efficiency. Little one-person motored trucks whizzed by us from every direction carting all different types of fish from one end of the market to the other. Butchers were busily trimming the fish. There were giant tunas everywhere and many other kinds of fish including exotic varieties I had never seen before in my life. The trekkers caught some great images in this very colorful and reflective environment. Then it was onto the South Tower Observation Deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office Building boasting great views of the city and Mount Fuji. Later that morning we visited the Meiji Shrine in Asakusa where the mentor series production team provided a professional Japanese model to pose for us in a traditional Japanese Kimono set against the colorful shrine. We strolled through the kaleidoscopic Asakusa Market to photograph and sample it’s dynamic array of food and browse the colorful craft shops. Our afternoon ended with a leisurely cruise along the Sumida River and a drive through the Ginza area back to our hotel. All the while, Toko provided an impressive historical and entertaining narration as we passed famous landmarks and historical sites.

The following day was free for the trekkers. Some explored Tokyo on their own and others, including myself, took an optional tour bus excursion to the city of Nikko complete with opulent temples and beautiful waterfalls (unfortunately due to the dense fog we could only hear the roar of the waterfalls!). Despite the rain and fog, we explored and photographed the temple complex including the Rinno-ji Shrine with its infamous steep stairway. Where there are temples and shrines, there are stairs and many of them, often steep. But that didn’t faze 82-year-old Hank who was such a trouper without ever a complaint. He exuded only pure enthusiasm and curiosity as he made through the shrine. An experienced world traveler who truly lives in the moment, he became an inspiration to all of us.
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The next morning we said “arigato gozaimasu” to Tokyo and headed 100 kilometers west along the pacific ocean toward our Odawara Hilton Hotel destination located in the foothills of the majestic Hakone mountains with views over the Sagami Bay. On our way to Odawara, we made a stop at Lake Kawaguchi with a view of Mt Fuji, which was unfortunately covered by clouds, and then we took a boat cruise on Lake Ashi to meet our cable car ride up Mount Komagatake. Later that evening at the cushy Odawara Hotel, some of us thawed out from a chilly day in the hotel’s rejuvenating natural hot spring baths.

The next day we snaked our way through the snowy Hida Mountains by train to the charming town of Takayama and spent the afternoon sightseeing. Our visits included the Takayama Jinya; a historical site once the local government building, the Festival Float Exhibition Hall; where the town stores and displays some of the traditional floats used in the yearly festivals and San-machi Suji; a historical area spanning just 3 streets representing the Old Takayama from the 18th century. The photo ops were endless on the streets of this rustic, historic district sprinkled with quaint shops and restaurants and lined with tiny canals of running water. After sunset, our tour bus dropped us off at the Hotel Associa Resort just fifteen minutes from town. Like the previous Hilton Hotel, I ended my day at the Associa with a natural hot spring bath, which included an outdoor bath that was literally carved into the snowy mountainside!

The following morning, on our way to the Shirakawa-go Gassho Village, we went back to the town of Takayama and shot the Asaichi (morning market.) As we traveled 2 hrs north to Shirakawa-go, Toko amazed us, once again, with her knowledge of this world heritage site we were about to explore. When we arrived in Shirakawa-go, we were greeted by Hiromi Morita, a well-known local photographer who has been shooting the village for years. He escorted us around the snowy village to some of the most photogenic sites. We snapped away at the villages infamous old world Gassho style houses that have steeply sloped and thatched gable roofs made of pampas grass. Many of us got great shots of the Gassho houses set against the snowy mountains reflecting off of the rice paddies. Then Hiromi took a few of us to his favorite noodle shop where I had by far the best noodles in Japan!
Our last couple of days were spent in the city of Kyoto with its 1,700 Buddhist temples and 300 Shinto shrines. After a speedy bullet train ride from Nagoya, we arrived in Kyoto for a ½ day of sight seeing including the Ryoanji Temple and its infamous Zen rock garden considered one of the masterpieces of Japanese culture. This same day, we also visited the Rokuon-ji Temple and photographed the “Golden Pavilion” named after it’s exterior that is covered in gold leaf and Japanese lacquer.

The following day we explored the Nijo Castle, the official residence of the first Toiugawa Shogun Ieyasu and symbol of the power of the military government. As we walked shoeless through the temple, its “nightingale” floor chirped with thousands of bird-like sounds originally built to warn the residence of late night trespassers. One of the highlights for me in Kyoto was exploring the Gion district, infamous for it’s shopping, entertainment and Geisha spotting. After we photographed a traditional Japanese theatre show on Hanami-koji street, a few of us (A.K.A. “The Geisha Groupies!”) hung out in the shadows of this quintessentially Japanese area for hours hoping to catch that great shot of a Geisha shuffling off to an evening appointment. I was torn over shooting the Geishas because I felt like I was intruding on their territory and their livelihood, yet they were so fascinating that it was hard to pass up the photo opportunity. It had just rained, so the lighting was very cinematic reflecting on the slick wet streets and the narrow alleyways spotted with traditional multicolored lanterns and teahouses. It was difficult to shoot the Geishas because they were moving so quickly, but a few of us were able to catch some interesting images.

The following morning, we traveled an hour outside of Kyoto to Nara, located in the heartland of Japan and considered the cradle of Japanese civilization. Our stops included the Horyu-ji Temple known for containing some of Japan’s oldest Buddhist art. Then our finale was at the Todaiji Temple. Its Daibutsu-Den is the largest wooden structure in the world protecting a more than 1,300-year-old Buddha (Daibutsu) also the largest bronze statue in the world. I believe that even if you had no interest in Buddhism (which I do) you couldn’t help but be moved by the enormity and serenity of this Buddha. Later that night was the final review show where at least ½ the trekkers shooting digital showcased their best images from the week. Although there were many great shots from our week in Japan, one of the most outstanding shots was Diana Hudson’s portrait photo of a monk at the Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. After the show, some of us had farewell drinks at the hotel bar and reminisced about our week together.

The obsessive Geisha Groupies hit the steep and winding cobble stone streets of the Higashiyama district one last time in the morning of our departure for shopping and possibly one last photo op of a Geisha. One of the Geishas we followed was really a Geisha in training and was kind enough to let us photograph her for a while. Ironically, some of us captured our best images during these last few moments in Japan. We rushed back to our hotel to catch our bus to the airport with Toko who was still with us since she had to get a flight as well out of the Osaka airport. She exchanged goodbye hugs and kisses before we went through security and then she waved to us and we waved back until we could no longer see each other. As the plane took off, I silently thanked Toko and Japan for their hospitality and for, by far, one of the most culturally interesting and photographically challenging treks I had experienced to date.