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| Photo by Jack Howard |
All the photos were shot with a pair of Olympus E-510 cameras set to Continuous focus, low ISOs, spot metering, full manual exposure mode, SHQ-quality JPEGs, with top of the line Olympus lenses at or near maximum aperture to give good background separation and provide peak-action freezing shutter speeds. We're not going to give the tech specs for each shot -- but instead we offer some pointers and self-critiques to help you shoot better tennis.
Click photo for more field test images. |
There is exceptionally tight security at the US Open this year. Big bags are not allowed. Video cameras are out. Digital still cameras are not on the officially banned list, and we saw a great number of spectators with compact digicams, EVFs and small DLSRs with compact superzoom lenses capturing shots of the action, but don't think you'll get through security with a couple of pro-level DSLRs and big f/2.8 telephotos unless you've got a media credential. Before you go, read this information from the official US Open Web site about security and prohibited items. Don't even think of bringing a laptop!
Inside the big stadiums such as Arthur Ashe, Louis Armstrong and the Grandstand, you'll have to be in the lowest level to get really tight action shots, even at 300mm, regardless of lens factor. So unless you're in the first 15 or so rows, you're better off going for overall environmental shots that capture the excitement of being there. During the daytime, especially if it's sunny, you'll be able to make nice "I was there" shots just as you normally shoot. Nighttime in stadiums is a bit more challenging. Check out this handy piece on making the most of it.
The great thing about the US Open, especially early on in the tournament, is the field courts. There's so much tennis to be played in the first week that even very popular, highly ranked players will often be on the more intimate field courts early on. Credentialed media get the first few rows in the center section, but there's no real difference between the second and third row on these courts. You are right there on top of the action. In direct sunlight, even a superzoom with a slowish f/5.6 telephoto aperture is fast enough to get action-freezing shutter speeds at ISO 200 or 400.
Nighttime is a bit more challenging, and whatever you do -- DO NOT USE FLASH! It is a really good way to annoy the players and get you ejected from the match. Instead, crank up the ISO, open the aperture as wide as possible, and shoot a lot of shots with the understanding that there may be some motion blurring due to slower shutter speeds.
For action-stopping tennis, here are some tips that work, whether it's the US Open, or the local recreation league:
1. Set your camera to Aperture Value and choose maximum aperture. Make sure you have selected a fast enough ISO to get a shutter speed of at least 1/800 to freeze action.
2. Pre-focus and focus-lock on the player that is serving. Make sure your camera doesn't attempt to re-focus as you re-frame your shot during the serve, otherwise you're likely to get blurry players and sharp backgrounds.
3. Anticipate the action -- watch the rackets! Shoot as soon as the player begins to swing. If you can see the ball in the frame before you shoot, odds are it won't be in your picture!
4. Only shoot one player at a time. It is amazingly difficult to try to shoot both ends of tennis at the same time. You'll get more winners if you concentrate on one end at a time. I generally focus on the player who is serving each game.
5. Respect the game and the players. Do not change position during a live point. Be quiet between plays, and especially during a serve.
6. Mix it up! Stop your aperture way down to f/22 or so, and drop your ISO to 100, and try to get a shutter speed around 1/15 second for some creative drag-shutter motion blur shots.
7. You'll often get a great reaction shot, whether it is anger or celebration, after a particularly long point, or following a very dramatic return that is either in or out. Resist the urge to jump right to the LCD after a great point -- look for the reaction!
8. Time yourself to get the winner on the first shot, and if you've got a fast burst rate, follow through for some back-up. But just wildly squeezing the shutter button doesn't necessarily lead to better pictures -- it just leads to more of them!
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