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SENSITIVE AUTOFOCUS

Like the E-3, the E-30 has 11 selectable focus points, each a pair of cross-type sensors to increase sensitivity. In our tests in the Pop Photo Lab, the E-30's autofocus was extremely fast in bright light. At EV 12 and EV 10, the two brightest levels we test, AF took 0.26 and 0.28 seconds, respectively. That's slightly faster than the E-3's 0.30 and 0.33 seconds in the same light and using the same 12-60mm f/2.8-4 Olympus Zuiko Digital ED SWD zoom lens.

The E-30 also beat Canon's EOS 50D at those two bright settings, and outperformed several rivals in a range of light. For instance, in all but very low light (EV 1 and dimmer), it proved faster than the Nikon D90, and it handily beat the Pentax K20D at most levels. Only Sony's blazingly fast Alpha 700 was able to beat the E-30 in both the very bright and very dim parts of our test.

But while it did very well in bright conditions, the E-30's AF system slowed as we turned down the lights. It took about the same time to focus, or just slightly longer than the E-3, in moderate and dim light, taking more than 2.3 sec at EV -2. That level, approximately the light cast by a full moon, is the dimmest the AF can handle, according to Olympus. Given our experience, we wouldn't use AF in conditions darker than a very dim living room (i.e., EV 0 or -1).

In live-view shooting, you can choose among three autofocus options. Imager AF uses a contrast-detection system that is significantly slower than the phase-detection system used in normal shooting. Still, it's about as fast as a point-and-shoot, and on par with what we've seen in competing contrast-detection systems. We generally preferred it in our own shooting with the E-30 in live-view mode.

If you don't mind having your live view interrupted, you can opt for the AF Sensor setting, using the phase-detection system, but this has to flip the mirror down, then focus, then flip it back up again. The third option, which Olympus calls Hybrid AF, uses contrast detection to get very close to perfect focus when you press the shutter button halfway, but follows up with phase detection before capturing the image. Since the initial half-press gets the lens so close to where it needs to be, the final focusing before capture shouldn't take very long.

VERY NICE BODY

With a design that closely follows that of the E-3, there's a whole lot to love about the E-30's body.

Dual command wheels? Got 'em. Dedicated buttons for ISO, sensor-shift image stabilization, white balance, autofocus, metering, and more? Check. The only LCD in this price range (other than the E-3's) that tilts and swivels? The E-30's got it.

One crucial difference is ruggedness. The E-30 lacks the E-3's extensive dust- and weathersealing. And its shutter isn't rated for durability, while the E-3's is rated to 150,000 cycles.

In normal shooting, though, it's a pleasure to use. Need to change a setting on the fly? Press the OK button and you jump straight into the status display on the main LCD, a 2.7-inch TFT with 230,000-dot resolution. From there you use the arrow keys to navigate to the setting you want to change. Technically, it's not too much faster than moving through a menu, but since you can see all the most important settings at once, it's easier to make sure you have the camera set the way you want it.

A function button can be programmed to perform a task of your choice, such as switching to manual focus, changing RAW or JPEG quality settings, or activating the camera's level gauge. That's right -- there's a built-in level indicator. When activated, the exposure compensation scale converts to let you know if the camera is level or not. If you have trouble keeping your horizon lines level, especially when you're not using a tripod, this should help.

We weren't wild about the function button's default setting, which activates face detection and automatically switches to what Olympus calls the "best settings for taking pictures of people." These include single-shot, all-area AF; Imager AF in live view; Digital ESP, Olympus-speak for whole-frame evaluative metering; and auto tone curve. (We prefer to keep the tone curve in Normal mode when we shoot and then adjust later during RAW conversion, or to switch manually in the field to High Key or Low Key curves to help preserve highlights or shadow detail in very bright or very dark subjects.)

This wouldn't be a problem if the function button weren't so close to where your thumb rests -- we accidentally activated it a few times during field testing. But the RAW conversion software that comes with the E-30 lets you adjust the tone curve during processing. And, of course, you can avoid similar mishaps simply by programming the button to a function you prefer to use.

BOTTOM LINE

If you're stepping up from an entry-level Olympus DSLR, such as the E-420, and have already started to invest in lenses, you need to decide between the E-30 and E-3. If you plan to shoot in harsh conditions, the E-3 is for you. If you're a more general-purpose shooter, and features such as the Art Filters and in-camera multiple exposures appeal to you, then the E-30 is probably the way to go.

If you're not married to the Four Thirds system, then things become more complicated. We took a closer look at the E-30's toughest competitors, the Canon 50D and Nikon D90, in the Competitive Set sidebar. The E-30 stands up very well against the Pentax K20D and Sony A700, but these are the oldest models in this class and neither offers live view. (Like the Olympus, though, both sport in-body image stabilization.)

Yes, others may be less expensive or perform better in our tests. But with its fun creative options, versatile swivel-and-tilt LCD, and well-designed body, the Olympus E-30 is enough camera to make any photographer happy.

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