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McKinley is perhaps the most forgotten among all the forgotten photographers of the past 30 years. Born in New Zealand, raised in Australia, he launched his photographic career in Europe at the end of the 1960s. His agent, Frances Grill, brought him to New York, where McKinley began working for Interview, Esquire, and, later, GQ magazines. He brought a happy, vivid sense of realism to fashion, especially men’s fashion. He died in 1992 of complications from AIDS. His archive of images went to the late Howard Gilman, a famed photo collector.

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